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Erosion Control Charleston SC is the process of preventing or controlling erosion in agriculture, land development, and construction sites. Adequate erosion controls help avert nutrient pollution, sedimentation, and soil loss.

Erosion occurs when bare ground is exposed to wind and rain. When the roots of plants hold soil in place, it’s less prone to damage.

Plants have an important role in soil erosion control because they bind the earth together with their roots, slow down water flow and create natural barriers to wind and wave action. They also add organic matter to the soil, which improves its structure and makes it less prone to all forms of erosion. In addition, vegetation provides cover and shade for soil and wildlife.

Erosion occurs most often where there is bare ground, which exposes the earth to wind and water action. Erosion is more likely to happen on light, sandy or silty soils than heavy clay soils. It can also be more pronounced on slopes or embankments, where soil is displaced by raindrop impact and runoff. The presence of grasses, flowers, shrubs and trees can greatly reduce the amount of bare soil on your property.

Vegetation is the most natural and effective way to prevent erosion, as it binds the soil with its root systems and slows down the movement of rainwater and water runoff. The more extensive a plant’s root system, the better it is at reducing surface erosion. Plants with lateral, spreading root systems, such as ivy and creeping phlox, are more efficient at erosion control than vertically structured plants with tap roots.

Several species of ferns are excellent at stopping erosion, particularly those with long, feathery leaves, such as coastal and big leaf fern, and the wood fern (Dryopteris fimbriata). A common woodland plant, ostrich fern, is also good for stopping erosion in wet, shady areas. Other sedges that stop erosion include Pennsylvania, Appalachian and plantain leaf sedge.

Riverbank lupine (Lupinus arvensis) stops erosion by pulling water into its underground roots. It is a legume, so it adds nitrogen to the soil as well. Other lupines that are good for erosion control include bearberry, rockpray and willow leaf cotoneaster, all suitable for USDA zones 5 through 8. All of these have spreading roots that help to protect the soil. Other plants that are suited for shady, moist areas include moss, sweet-smelling heucherella and tri-colored periwinkle. All are available in seed blends and sod, although it takes four to six weeks for the latter option to take hold.

Retaining Walls

Retaining walls are structural features that can add interest and beauty to your yard. They are also a necessity in the fight against erosion. These structures stabilize slopes, prevent landslides, and create terraces for gardening and other uses. They also help to keep soil in place, preventing runoff into storm water sewers and rivers where it can damage or pollute our environment.

Homeowners can choose from a wide variety of materials, colors and textures to design a beautiful structure that blends with the landscape and complements their home’s aesthetic. However, retaining walls are not only functional — they add value to the property and can make it more appealing to prospective buyers.

Sloped areas are often difficult to use. Even a small amount of rain can cause soil to wash down the slope and erode, leaving behind unsightly debris or damaging your lawn or garden. With a retaining wall, it is possible to level and terrace the land for increased usable space. You can build a terraced area for new patios and decks, or plant eye-catching flower gardens and shrubbery.

A retaining wall can be constructed from many types of material, depending on your needs and budget. If your goal is to simply increase the attractiveness of the property, you can choose from a number of decorative options including natural stone, bricks or flagstones. If your primary goal is to combat erosion, you may want to consider a more sturdy and durable solution such as concrete or masonry.

In order to resist the immense pressures of a retaining wall, it is important that it be properly built and maintained. Checking for signs of damage and taking prompt action is essential. It is also a good idea to regularly monitor the soil behind your wall and to plant trees and other plants that will anchor the soil. This will help to prevent soil movement and promote healthy growth of the vegetation that you have chosen to plant.

There are several different types of retaining walls that can be used to combat erosion and create terraces. Whether you are building a simple gravity wall or a more complex structure, it is important to consult with a professional before beginning construction. This will ensure that the project is completed according to state and local regulations and will be able to withstand the environmental conditions where it is located.

Sediment Basins

Sediment basins are open water ponds that capture coarse sediment and litter carried by stormwater, preventing it from entering waterways. They are a critical element in any erosion control system and should be used on every site, regardless of project size or construction duration.

The design of a sediment basin needs to be tailored to the specific site conditions. For example, very stony soils that are likely to generate a significant amount of inflow jetting will require the inclusion of a riffle/broad crested structure within the forebay to dissipate flow and minimise sediment accumulation (and consequently maintenance requirements). The design should also consider whether the basin needs to be lined or not. Lined basins are more durable, however the cost of lining can be prohibitive for smaller ponds.

Ideally, the design will include a high flow bypass weir or spillway to direct large flows away from the sediment basin and downstream treatment systems. The spillway should be armoured with rock to prevent scour and be designed to limit the frequency of sediment re-suspension.

It is important that the sediment basin is hydraulically efficient so that as much of the coarse sediment as possible can be settled. This is achieved by ensuring that the settling zone has an effective depth of 1.5-2m. This will reduce the volume of turbid water discharged from the pond, which in turn improves settling efficiency.

The use of baffles within the settling zone can also be useful to increase settling efficiency. These can be made from coir fibre, porous geotextiles or a turbidity barrier and are designed to disrupt the flow patterns in the pond, decrease velocities and encourage aggregation of fine sediment.

For sites where the use of sediment basins is not feasible, such as linear construction projects or when a site’s Right of Way does not permit for their construction, the focus must be on the implementation of all other reasonable and practicable erosion control measures. The monitoring of water quality parameters at these sites will be a key part of this.

Chemical treatment of the water entering and leaving a sediment basin is often required if sediment is not being effectively removed by the sediment basin alone. Jar tests will need to be conducted to determine which coagulant or flocculant is most appropriate for the site.

Storm Drains

Many people have heard the famous line from George Costanza in Seinfeld, “I don’t understand the difference between a storm drain and a sewer system.” The truth is that there is a major distinction. The main function of a storm drain is to transfer storm water away from city streets, houses and buildings. This water goes through a series of underground pipes and eventually ends up in lakes, rivers and the ocean.

A city’s storm drain system works well in theory, but it can be harmed by improper maintenance and lack of attention. While the water is being transferred, it picks up debris such as lawn chemicals, paint, household cleaners and oil that wash directly into a stream or lake. This pollution causes the erosion of streambanks and disturbs aquatic habitats.

The best way to help maintain a storm drainage system is to not dump anything down a drain. Instead, use your curbside garbage bins or make a compost pile. Do not blow grass clippings, leaves or plant debris down the street either. These materials can clog the storm drains and cause flooding or erosion in your neighborhood.

Storm drain grates are also a good tool in preventing erosion and floods. These can be installed in low areas of a parking lot, trenches and sidewalks. The idea is to have these grates redirect rainwater and melted snow away from homes, buildings and paved surfaces and into a natural body of water like a creek or river.

However, a storm drain can get overwhelmed during heavy rains or even a large hailstorm, and may begin to mix in sewage. This is why it’s important to limit the amount of debris that goes down a storm drain and to install detention tanks in a house or business to keep excess water from entering the public storm drainage system during heavy rains. This will prevent the drains from becoming inundated and can save you money on water bills. Alternatively, permeable pavements can be used in urban areas to allow rainwater to infiltrate into the soil or evapotranspire through vegetation.

Dock Installation has a well-deserved reputation for being the most hated chore cottage owners face each spring. If you have a conventional wood and concrete dock, it may involve augering in deep muck and back-breaking work.

Fortunately, you can avoid this pain by following these simple tips to simplify your dock installation this spring.

The type of dock you choose depends on how you use the waterfront. Do you want a platform to launch boats, or do you enjoy kayaking and stand up paddleboarding? What about fishing? Will you need a place to store and moor boats when not in use, or maybe even a boat lift?

Depending on your climate and the type of waterfront, you may need to consider how well a dock can withstand winter weather. And, if your shoreline is within a buffer zone or in an area of wetlands, you may need additional approvals from local governments, state agencies, and sometimes the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

Many waterfront homeowners are also interested in a floating dock because they can be used all year round and won’t need to be removed for the winter. And, they’re often more affordable than other types of permanent structures.

Lastly, if you’re considering a shared waterfront, it’s important to learn as much as you can about how your community handles moorage and maintenance. Some communities have deeded boat slips, while others rely on a system of rotation and sharing.

As you consider your options, remember that a wooden dock is more likely to rot and require yearly maintenance than a vinyl or aluminum one. Cedar is the best choice because it’s naturally rot-resistant. However, if you can’t afford cedar, consider a composite decking material that’s made of wood fibers and plastic. This durable material doesn’t need painting and is extremely wear-resistant. It’s also eco-friendly. Regardless of your choice, make sure to choose an installation company that can provide quality work and the support you need during construction.

Know Your Anchoring System

When dock installation is underway, it’s important to have an idea of how your new floating dock will be anchored. The type of anchoring system you choose will determine how the dock behaves in high winds and wavy conditions, as well as how it adjusts to changes in water levels from season to season.

A concrete block anchor is the most common choice because it is easy to install and durable enough for most waterfront environments. If your dock is going to be large, you may want to consider additional anchors for added stability. If the area where you plan to put your boat dock is rocky, you might want to look into a cable anchoring system that attaches a series of cables to a shore or weight in the water.

You also want to consider the height at which you plan to set your dock. If you live in a windy lake area, your dock will need to be high enough to avoid being flipped by heavy gusts of wind. On the other hand, if your dock is near neighbors and is likely to see similar weather conditions, you might want to set it lower.

When you’re ready to put the anchors in, place long pieces of wood under them to avoid damage to your decking. Then, connect a chain to the eyebolts or rebar of each anchor to tie them together. Be sure not to cut the chain too short, as this puts extra stress on the anchors and makes them more vulnerable to moving or sliding.

You should also consider using a pole and sleeve style anchoring system if your waterfront has a rocky bottom. This type of system consists of stiff vertical sleeves attached to the dock that hold long poles made of galvanized steel. A winch and cable system runs through the sleeves to make it easier to withdraw them from the lake bed when necessary.

Mark for Fasteners

As anyone who has been around fasteners for any length of time knows, there are many different standards that provide specifications for various types of fasteners. These specifications cover everything from the material that the fasteners are made of to their dimensional tolerances and plating. Most of these standards exist to help standardize how products are made and to give buyers a sense of accountability and confidence in the product they are purchasing.

One of the standards that exists is called the Fastener Quality Act, which requires all fasteners to be marked with a unique symbol created by the manufacturer for traceability purposes. This ensures that the manufacturer can be held accountable if there is ever a problem with the product. The unique identifier that is used by Wilson-Garner can be seen in the image below.

Most of the different grades of fasteners are identified by a series of radial lines on the head of the fastener, with the exception of small (less than about 1/4″) and slotted or recessed heads, where there isn’t room to place the radial marks. The numbering system differs by grade and class. For example, a head with no markings is grade 2, while those with three radial lines is grade 5, and six radial lines means it’s grade 8.

Many manufacturers also mark their fasteners in other ways to identify their product and to make sure the end user has all of the information they need to properly use them. For instance, a lot of bolts have the manufacturer’s name or trademark printed on the head or hex portion of the fastener. Additionally, some have a special coating on their head such as Permatex Bolt Mark, which is a tamper-proof indicator paste that allows you to see if the bolt or screw has been stripped or tampered with.

Pre-Assemble as Much as You Can

Before you begin construction, it’s a good idea to pre-assemble as much of the dock as possible. This will save you time and money when you’re ready to get started. Most aluminum floating docks come in kits that include the components for the dock itself, as well as instructions. The kits are easy to assemble and modular, so even homeowners with limited DIY experience can put them together.

Before beginning, locate a concrete surface that’s free of obstructions where you can start to assemble your dock. Remove the pins and fasteners that were attached for shipping purposes and start to assemble your dock section by section. Look at the reference medallions on each section to make sure they are oriented correctly. Once the base is in place, you can start to install the decking. Make sure to space the boards evenly and leave a little bit of space between them for water drainage and prevent sagging. After installing the decking, you can then add bracing and cross members. These are important because they help distribute the weight of the boat dock more evenly and prevent sagging.

You’ll also want to think about how you’ll use your dock, such as for entertaining or mooring a boat. These factors can affect the size, structure and electrical capabilities of your dock. The type and style of your dock also impacts its final price. For example, permanent wood and concrete docks can cost more than a floating aluminum dock. Other factors that determine the final project price include climate, location and water depth. It’s also important to factor in the cost of annual inspections and cleaning. These services can run $150-$500 or more depending on the type of dock.

Float Over the Winter

Floating docks are a great way to get out on the water and moor your boat, but they can be subject to damage from winter weather. If you live in an area that has a cold climate, it’s important to plan ahead when it comes to disassembling and storing your dock for the season.

First, choose a day for your dock removal that is free from snowstorms and other inclement weather. It’s also helpful to recruit a friend or family member for assistance, especially if you have a lot of fasteners to remove. Having a good plan will help you make the most efficient use of your time, and you’ll be able to complete the job faster too.

If possible, you should store your floating dock sections in an enclosed area for the winter – like a garage or shed on your property. This will keep them safe from debris and weather, and will prevent the need to disassemble and reassemble them in the spring. If this is not an option, try to place your modular dock in a protected bay with at least two feet of room between it and the rocky shoreline. This will give the dock room to move when ice expands and shifts in the winter.

Another alternative to removing your dock for the winter is to add “skimmers” to it. These are little fans that can be submerged at the end of your dock to circulate water and avoid a buildup of ice, which would damage your dock. If you do decide to float your dock over the winter, be sure to mark it so that snowmobilers and other people don’t accidentally trip on it!

What Is Erosion Control?